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What is the best way to change a alternator in a 1985 Honda accord LX?

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you have to take off the left driveshaft from the tranny so make sure you drain it first, be careful when taking the shaft off if you yank it off too had you can damage you cv joints, the you have to take off the belt, then unbolt the alternator mount and unbolt the alternator. you will have to take the driveshaft off from the where the wheel is so u need a crobar to wedge in the lug bolts so the tire doesnt turn while yuo loosen the bolt

Alternative to pulling the axle

It's easy, you just take out the old one and put in a new one, unless the engine is installed in a vehicle! There are a few chioces to get access to the alternator. The method I used last night on my 1985 Honda Accord (carb) was to unbolt and disconnect the old alternator, move it out of the way, remove the alternator bracket, jack up the car with the left front tire floating free, unbolt the strut (the 3 nuts on top), slide the alternator out by turning it over (regulator side out first, top mounting hole down) pushing down against the axle. It is a very tight fit, I used a pry bar to walk the alternator out to the right, along the axle slowly. I think there is just enough give in the motor mounts to not dent the oil pan too much. The new one goes in in reverse order. Don't forget to reconnect the Negative battery cable. The whole job took me 3 hours. Good Luck!

PS: This method works easily with a couple of extra hints. 1) Don't forget to disconnect the negative cable in the first place. 2) Secure the strut as far down and back as it can go. I pushed it down with my foot while reaching under the fender to wedge a stick about 10 inches long between the strut and the wheel well. 3) Remove the single bolt securing the motot mount nest to the fender and dismount the electrical connector from the radiator fan bracket to give room for the engine to be levered forward. 4) Lever the engine forward with a long crowbar placed between the driveshaft and the oil pan. With the alternator positioned as above you can wiggle it out by hand and shove the new one in with your foot. This works so well I didn't get too depressed when I realized I had bought the wrong alternator and had to do this all over again. Do compare your new alternator to the old one before you install it. The difference is that carb models have a three-wire connector and fuel-injected models have a four-wire connector.

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Next time I have to change one I'm pulling the engine. I think it would be quicker.

I know a mechanic who swears by disconnecting all the motor mounts and BOTH CV axles, then using a transmission jack to pick the engine up about an inch and a half. This works very well--it opens a gap between the bottom of the engine and the back of the engine compartment wide enough for the alternator to slip right through.

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First answer by ID2603307565. Last edit by Jmowreader. Contributor trust: 225 [recommend contributor]. Question popularity: 71 [recommend question]

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